Portland Roads
A Historical Site
Where the Land merged with the Sea!
The nautical term Portland Roads first appeared on a British Admiralty Chart in 1897. It was the name given to the ‘safe anchorage’ in front of the township called Portland Roads today. Over time, early settlers brought the name ashore for the township. The Land merged with the Sea.
Portland
Honors english heritage. The ‘Earls of Portland’ were generous benefactors to early Australian explorers like Captain James Cook who named nearby Cape Weymouth during his voyage in HMS Endeavour along the east coast in 1770
Roads
A modern abbreviation for “Roadstead” meaning “Safe Anchorage”.
From 1948-1951, Vic Penny, was the only permanent resident living at Portland Roads
Home fleet in Portland Roads, Weymouth. Pinterest UK collection
An earlier Portland Roads in England
An earlier anchorage named Portland Roads lay off the northern coast of Portland, near Weymouth, England. This English anchorage was naturally sheltered on all sides except from the East. Following a Commissioners Report in 1845, two breakwater arms were constructed to transform Portland Roads into a ‘harbour of refuge’ – Portland Harbour
Incidentally, the English Portland Roads was the site for the 2012 Olympic sailing regatta.
Chronicled below are significant milestones and pictorial records of Portland Roads historical past.
Early Explorers
Captain James Cook
Captain James Cook
Captain James Cook sailed past what is now Portland Roads on his voyage of discovery in 1770.
After having repaired his vessel at the Endeavour River (Cooktown), he continued exploring north. He sailed back inside the Great Barrier Reef through the Providential Channel just to the south-east of here. It was so named by Cook as it saved the Endeavour from once again running into the reef. Once inside the reef again, he named Cape Direction located south-east of Lockhart River community and Cape Weymouth, between Chili Beach and Portland Roads.
Lieutenant William Bligh
After the mutiny on the Bounty, Lieutenant William Bligh was forced to set off on his 3,500 nautical mile voyage from Tofua (Tonga) to Timor in the ship’s 23 foot open launch.
With 18 loyal crewmen, Bligh armed with navigation knowledge gained from serving with Captain Cook, navigated the open launch west across the stormy Pacific coming through the Great Barrier Reef just south of where Cook had re-entered 19 years earlier. Bligh named Restoration Island …” by reason of fact that he and his crew were restored by the generous stew of oysters and palm tops after their hazardous voyage”.
Bligh’s Epic Voyage Begins
Edmund Kennedy Memorial Cairn – 1948
Surveyor Edmund Kennedy
Surveyor Edmund Kennedy also passed through in 1848. By the time he arrived, his expedition was in desperate trouble and running out of supplies. Kennedy left eight members of his team at Weymouth Bay near the Pascoe River.
He pushed on hoping to meet the vessel HMS Ariel, but was fatally speared enroute. His aboriginal guide Jackey-Jackey was the sole survivor of the advance party and reached the waiting ship Ariel, which then rescued survivors Carron and Goodard from Weymouth Bay on 30 December 1848.
There is a memorial on-site at Portland Roads which was unveiled in 1948 (pictured).
Edmund Kennedy Memorial Cairn – 1948
The Gold Rush
In the early 1920s gold fever arrived in the Portland Roads vicinity.
Over 100 prospectors joined the rush to the nearby Batavia (Wenlock) Goldfields. Then in 1934, Jack Gordon prospecting near the ‘little’ Claudie River headwaters in Iron Range, discovered a large seam of gold near the later named Gordon Creek (now part of the Iron Range National Park).
The gold rush put the Iron Range area on the map, with Portland Roads as the staging point for miners and equipment going to the Batavia, Gordon Creek and Packers Creek mines for about 30 years.
Getting materials and stores to the mines was always an ordeal. Freighted by ship from down south and transferred onto small ‘lighters’ to be brought ashore, it was then hauled by wagons into the rainforest and on to the mines. The double handling of heavy mining equipment from ship to smaller vessels, then finally ashore, eventually led to the construction of the Portland Roads Jetty. The timber jetty designed and pre-cut in Cairns was completed in 1938.
The mines were very successful. The Queensland Government Mining Journals reported a yield of 2,005 ounces of gold in the years prior to WWII, and a total of 6,530 ounces before their closure in 1956.
The Post Office for the Gordon Creek Goldrush era stood close to where the Cooks Hut Camping Ground is today
Cast-iron mining equipment still lies in the rainforest behind the Gordon Creek camping ground.
Land Ranger Goodwin
1931 – 32
While the Coastal waters around the Portland Roads area had been rudimentarily charted since the times of Cook and Bligh, the land itself was not surveyed in any great detail.
In the 1930’s the Public Lands Administration Board, was tasked to survey the central eastern part of Cape York Peninsula. It was in response to an application made by the Lloyd Bay Development Company, for the granting of a special lease over an area of about 1,000 square miles between the Main Range and the coast. The survey was conducted by Land Ranger Chas H Goodwin. Goodwin departed Cairns in early April 1931 aboard the S.S. Wandana, heading to Portland Roads to undertake the survey.
An extract from Goodwin’s journal tells of surveying Cape York in those early attempts to map the Cape:
On the 9-10 April 1931, we attempted to carry out inspections on foot, but, as we were compelled to walk over rough country and through grass over our heads, very little progress was made; we decided to await the arrival of horses, which we expected to arrive almost immediately. However, the horses did not arrive until 21 May and on arrival, were found to be in very low condition, with suppurating sore backs, footsore and in some cases lame. Included in the plant were four mares, with foals at foot, and one ‘green’ colt. It was readily seen that this plant was unsuitable for the work ahead”. Eventually Goodwin did manage to be supplied sufficient horses and resources to conduct the survey – no mean feat. As can be seen from his map, he traversed this country taking detailed notes, following creeks, climbing ridges and crossing the flats of the Cape.
Detailed Surveyors Map
The result of Godwin’s endeavours is a beautifully detailed, hand-drawn map of this area of Cape York Peninsula, complete with early mining leases and notes on landscape features and vegetation.
A large scale scanned extract of the map is available to download here.
Goodwin’s Provisions for the Expedition
This is an account of the provisions requested by Land Ranger Goodwin for the duration of his in-field survey work. The stores were carried by pack horse and one can only assume Land Ranger Goodwin was a very self-sufficient individual. You can pack a lot less when planning a trip to the Cape these days:
6 x 50lbs bags of flour, 2 x 50lbs bags of self-raising flour, 1.5 x 70lbs bags of sugar, 300lbs of beef (brined and kegged), 28lbs rice, 20lbs sago, 30lbs oatmeal, 2 dozen condensed milk, 2 dozen dry milk, 4 dozen x 2lbs tins of jam, 4 dozen x 1lbs tins of butter, 70lbs coarse salt, 14lbs fine salt, 1 tin pepper, 6 bottles vinegar, 1 dozen bottles of sauce, 2 dozen bottles of pickles, 6 dozen assorted canned fruit, 1 dozen tins syrup, 10lbs honey, 12lbs dry biscuits, 12lbs sweet biscuits, 2 dozen tins (Rex) cheese, 20lbs tea (Highfield), 6lbs coffee (English Soluble), 6lbs cocoa, 1lb mustard, 1lb baking soda, 2lbs cream tartar, 6lbs dripping, 6 dozen x 1b tins of canned meat, 50lbs onions, 10lbs dried fruits (assorted), 2 tins curry powder, 60lbs bacon, 14lbs chocolate (unsweetened), 5lbs currants, 5lbs raisins, 50lbs dates. It continued with functional items including: 250 shotgun cartridges Gauge 3 & 4, 2 heavy and 2 light fishing lines with an array of hooks, 6 rope clothes lines, 1 coil galvanized 16 gauge wire, 25lbs carbide, 2 carbide lamps, 1 x 12ozs bottle of ink, 6 lead pencils, ½ ream of foolscap, 1 hank twine, 12 bars of soap, 1 dozen lifebuoy soap, 1 tin kerosene, I x Hurricane lantern with 2 x wicks, 1 plum axe 4.5lbs, 6 dozen matches (in waterproof tin), 3lbs trade tobacco, 1 Prismatic Compass, 1 android Barometer and 66ft chain of metallic tape. First Aid Outfit: 2ozs Permanganate Potash, 4ozs Iodine, 2 dozen packets Epsom Salts.
An Early Road Report for the Cape
Showing he was a man of insight, Land Ranger Goodwin gave a very telling account of the difficulties to be expected in establishing roads of the Cape. This extract taken from his report, dated 28 September 1932.
We would point out that without going to the expense of building costly roads, this country would be impassable to vehicular traffic in the wet season, when it is only just possible to travel along beaten tracks with pack horses. This is brought about by travellers being compelled to keep to the low lying, swampy devil devil and spewy flats and low sandy ridges, which become very boggy in the wet season.
The necessity of traversing these low-lying areas is due to the fact that all hard ridges are all far too rough, stoney and broken. We would also point out that the country to the north of Scrub Area “B” is inaccessible from Portland Roads, except by packhorses as it is far too rough and broken for wheeled traffic.
As for the reason for Goodwin’s survey, the application for the special lease by the Lloyd Bay Development Company received a resounding ‘no’. However, thanks to Goodwin’s work and that of the Main Roads Department since WWII, travel across the Cape has become progressively easier with 4WDs and convenient pit stops along the way.
In 2006, in the wake of Cyclone Monica, much of the Cape York’s road network was vertually destroyed by the gale force winds and record flooding. Most of the remote communities like Lockhart River and Portland Roads remained isolated by road for many months after the Cyclone had gone through. The extreme hardship felt by those living in these communities provided the stimulus for substantial Federal and State funding to urgently provide sealed, all weather access to the Cape Communities.
Now nearly a century after Goodwin’s detailed survey and report on the difficulty of establishing roads in Cape York, sealing the Peninsula Development Road and the tributary roads to the Communities is nearing completion.
The New Beginning
Vic Penny 1948 – 1951
After the complete civilian evacuation of Cape York during World War II, it was years before people started venturing back into this remote Portland Roads, Iron Range area.
From 1948 until 1951, Vic Penny was the only permanent resident living at Portland Roads.
During his stay, Vic effectively kick-started the regeneration of Portland Roads, post-World War II. He worked part-time for the Main Roads Department and was allocated an early model Caterpillar dozer to ‘open’ this end of the road between Portland Roads and Coen each year. He joined the Fishers from the revitalized Wenlock Gold Fields to work on the construction of a bridge across Garraway Creek on Portland Roads Road to the west of Mt Tozer.
As Harbour Master, he received five pounds a year to ‘light and hang’ the jetty navigation lights, tie-up ships when they berthed, and perform minor jetty maintenance.
In 1951 he helped organize the second expedition to Button Button (near ‘Old Site’) to reopen the very first mining lease recorded in our area (Refer to Land Ranger Goodwin’s survey map).
To “message” someone down south from Portland Roads back in 1951 was a whole lot harder than today. Here, Vic Penny sits beside a Paw Paw tree getting out a message by printing it up on a mechanical typewriter (to then probably be posted and taken south on the weekly Mail Plane that serviced the Gordon strip about 40 kilometres away).
Unfortunately, the Garraway Creek bridge that Vic help construct was later abandoned due to ongoing high maintenance costs, but the beautiful stonework can still be seen today just off to the side of the current crossing, and is a reminder of the first major step in upgrading our local road after World War II.
The cunstruction of the bridge over Garraway Creek west of Mt Toza nears completion in 1952.
Vic’s collection of images from 70 years ago captures a time in Portland Roads history that is barely recognisable when compared to what we see and experience today. The magnificent colour images were taken as 35mm slides with an early SLR camera. This was at a time when most amateur photographers in the bush were using the ubiquitous Kodak ‘Box Brownie’.
Some of the black and white images are not of high quality, but are very important as a register of the very different way life was lived at Portland Roads. There was no corner store and very few camps had the luxury of a kerosene fridge. Carrying rifles was a very normal part of life in remote areas, both for protection and hunting.
The Kuuku Ya’u
Using traditional hunting skills, local indigenous groups made the best of the tides to fish, forage, collect oysters and hunt the highly prized turtle and dugong. Catching dugong required great skill and understanding of their habitat. Proud tribal hunters returning to camp, would be admired by kin for their immense hunting skill, and herald the beginning of a ‘Kup-Murri’ (feast) for all.
Image: A ‘Kup-Murri’ (feast) for all.
1960’s – 1990’s
Commercial Fishing
In the 1960’s the commercial fishing industry became firmly established along the east coast of Queensland. The commercial prawn trawlers and boats ventured north from Cairns seeking out new fishing grounds. The number of boats grew until by the late 1980’s and early 90’s, at their industry peak, over 300 commercial prawn trawlers worked north of Cairns every year.
‘The Roads’ as it become known, became home away from home for many of these boats.
It was a sight to behold when a mothership for the fishing industry anchored up at ‘The Roads’ to service the commercial fishing fleet. It would take hours for a mothership to service all of the boats, as they, in turn, went over and tied up to refuel, take on their supplies and transfer their frozen product to be taken south to Cairns.
For those living ashore, all supplies were ordered from Cairns and delivered to Portland Roads on the mothership.
Residents would pick up supplies ‘in the tinnie’ regardless of weather and tide. In the wet season and at low tide this could be a real chore.
The saving grace was that the motherships were licensed – there was alcohol, cigarettes and chocolate plenty.
In the 1960’s-70’s, Restoration Island was home base for commercial fishing for Spanish Mackerel. There was a large Freezer-room ashore to store the fish until it was shipped south to Cairns.
Ferals
The 80’s also brought the ‘hippies and ferals’ north to settle nearby at Chili Beach. (We use the term ‘ferals’ which was proudly used by the people themselves).
From the beginnings of ‘communal lifestyle’ at Nimbin in northern NSW, some moved north to Kuranda, then to Cow Bay and eventually to Chili Beach. Here they took over the Idlewild state government lease.
The pastoral lease covered 2,560 acres of ocean frontage land surrounding Portland Roads and stretching from the mouth of the Pascoe River, south to Chili Beach. While work and subsistence living were a part of life, for some it was at a bit slower pace. The fondly remembered Market Days were festive. It was a time to relax, for everyone to get together, and unwind. The Lockhart River mob often came out to join the fun as well. Impromptu guitar and drums, poetry, singing and cultural dancing were always a hoot!
The increase in permanent residents led to improved roads and renewed attention from the south. Portland Roads finally got access to the phone network in 1993. For the first time, locals could call and talk to family and friends down south. Quaint now, but a public phone box was installed on the esplanade much to the delight of the fishers anchored up out front. They would row ashore, keen to line up and swat sandflies as they waited their turn to call home.
The early 1990’s saw four local residents take on commercial trolling for Spanish Mackerel working out of ‘The Roads’ in their own small 10 metre boats. Considered the babies of the commercial fleet in the north, these boats were normally operated singlehandedly, had few luxuries and limited capacity for storing large quantities of frozen product. Yet these boats proved ideal for working the local mackerel grounds and if the weather turned bad, home wasn’t too far away to anchor up, and wait for the next mothership to arrive and unload the catch.
The Kuuku Ya’u mob and friends visit Portland Roads from the recently relocated Lockhart River Community in the early 1970’s.
Much to the dismay of the many people living on the Idlewild lease, it expired in 1994 and was not renewed. The property was returned to the state government as ‘unallocated State Land’. It was the beginning of the end of a very vibrant period. The parties and the relationships are still remembered with fondness and always with a smile.
The New Millenium
2,000’s – Today
Major Change
The start of the new millennium signalled a change in course for this tiny community and the surrounding Iron Range locality.
As access, and communications improved to this remote area, the sleepy, laid-back fishing community was increasing influenced by the encroaching influences of the outside world.
By then, most of the hippies and ferals from the old Idlewild lease had moved on, and over the next few years those who were still squatting there were forced to leave, by court order.
Also in 2000, the first of the State Government and GBRMPA reviewed fisheries legislation was introduced to ensure sustainable fishing practices in Queensland waters.
While these changes were needed and long overdue, the new regulations combined with the ever-increasing costs of vessels working remotely off the Cape, saw the large number of commercial boats rarely venture north of Princess Charlotte Bay.
Sadly, those days where up to 50 trawlers and line boats anchored at ‘the Roads’ on a Mothership Day quickly became part of history.
Greg with his mackerel boat Mackinaw
While Portland Roads cherishes and celebrates its colourful colonial past, today the township has evolved and prospered by developing small sustainable tourism businesses focused on the ever-increasing tourism opportunities opening up in Cape York
The Kuuku Ya’u
Following the Mabo decision in 1992, the Native Title Decision for the local Kuuku Ya’u people was formally declared in 2011 thus providing closure to a long struggle over land rights when the court acknowledged the Kuuku Ya’u peoples’ continued association with their country. The determination recognised that the National Park is owned by the Kuuku Ya’u people (through CYPAL) and jointly managed with Queensland Government’s National Parks. The former Idlewild lease is now Kuuku Ya’u Aboriginal Freehold land for their exclusive use. The granting of the lease gave the Kuuku Ya’u people the opportunity to live on country and embrace their land. Today we share lifestyles with an exciting economic future in Tourism and Hospitality.
Image: Having a fish at ‘the Point’ at Portland Roads.